Day Four – 6.2.15

I wake up very cold in my safari tent. I didn’t expect it to dip into the mid 50s after such intense heat over the last few days. I pack everything back on the bike and say goodbye El Cosmico.

I forgot to mention that in addition to giving me dinner last night, the friendly manager scribbled “marfa burrito” on a receipt and told me to check it out for breakfast. With his vague description of the location in mind and the potent aroma of fresh tortillas blowing out of the small house and into the street, it doesn’t take me long to find it.

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Beyond the vinyl screen door I find Ramona smiling ear to ear and hand making massive fluffy tortillas. She doesn’t speak a word of english and my spanish is embarrassingly terrible. Using the few words I’ve picked up from spending quality time with my friend Beto in combination with her generous nature, we manage to clarify that I would like one of her chorizo & huevos burritos. She sets about crafting my breakfast and I wander around her house/resturant looking and her collection of trinkets.

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This is one of the best breakfast burritos I’ve ever had. I don’t throw those accolades around lightly. My friend and former colleague Daniel Lee and I eat breakfast burritos almost every Thursday morning at different establishments around LA. Ramona’s burrito and salsa verde rivals them all.

With a very full belly, I hit the road. It feels great to be back on the bike after a day off yesterday to explore Marfa.

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I spend part of my day on “farm road 1053” which is littered with oil derricks and ranches. The alternating smells of manure and petroleum permeate my helmet and keep the olfactory experience interesting.

The trek across Texas is an amazing transition from scrubby dessert to lush greenery. It seems to happen pretty abruptly somewhere in the middle of the state.

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The weather is a perfect 85 degrees, the music in my headphones is apropos for the scenery. 530 miles after leaving Marfa, I arrive in Dallas, TX.

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I find a last minute deal on a hotel room from my phone and take my first bonafide shower since leaving LA. What a relief.

Feeling very clean, I head out to explore the great buildings Dallas has clustered in the downtown arts district.

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[Nasher Sculpture Center by Renzo Piano]

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[Nasher Sculpture Center by Renzo Piano]

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[Winspear Opera House by Norman Foster]

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[Controversial condo tower by Johnson Fain framed by IM Pei symphony hall]

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[Wyly Theater by REX / OMA]

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[High school by Allied Works]

After a whirlwind tour of architecture, it’s time to eat dinner. I wander into a place called Stephan Pyles and have a seat at the bar. “Excuse me sir, that seat is taken.” says a Texan in a grey suit. The friendly woman sitting next to him invites me to sit next to her. I order the beef tenderloin and a local beer. Both are incredibly delicious.

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The fellow in the grey suit eventually makes an exit and I strike up a conversation with the woman and the gentleman who’s seat I inadvertently tried to steal. It turns out that Norma and Drew are colleagues at an architecture and construction company called Beck. They are both shocked to learn that I’m an architect and are very enthusiastic when I describe the trek that I’m on. Drew very generously buys my dinner and they offer me a tour of thier office located in the same building as the restaurant. It turns out that their company actually built Piano’s Nasher Gallery as well as his pavilion at the Kimbell and a slew of other landmark projects around Dallas and beyond. Their offices are very impressive as is their 100+ year-old, privately held, multidisciplinary company. What a pleasure to meet both of you.

Dallas is definitely a place I want to return to.

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