The penultimate day of the journey.

I awake among the redwoods at my campsite in Big Sur to incredible light. I pack up and jump back on Highway 1.

[good morning light]

After a stop for breakfast at the Big Sur Bakery, the fog becomes extremely thick. It makes for a very illusive ride along the coast. I know the ocean is there because I can smell the distinctive sea air and I can hear the waves crashing against the rocks, but I can’t see beyond the scrubby plants along the side of the road.

[foggy view of the ocean]

[riding through the fog]

As I continue south on Highway 1 the fog begins to dissipate, but the sky remains a pale grey. The lack of sweeping ocean views seems to keep the traffic light, which makes for fun riding in the curves.

[curvy Highway 1]

I stop in San Simeon to see the elephant seals. The massive seals are sprawled on the beach and some of the larger males are in the water “sparring” in preparation for mating season, according to the member of Friends of the Seals who is spouting information to all of the onlookers. She points out that the largest male is approximately 20 feet long and weighs approximately 5000 pounds. Luckily there is a significant fence between us and them. Elephant seals were once thought to be extinct, but seem to be fairly prolific now. They are very amazing and strange creatures.

[elephant seals]

[large male elephant seals sparring]

Just after passing the Hearst Castle I spot some zebra wandering around on the hillside. Luckily I’ve visited the castle before, so I know that they are descendants of the ones William Hearst brought in 1920s as part of his private zoo. Still, it’s quite shocking to see zebra in Central California.

[zebra near the Hearst Castle]

South of Pismo Beach, CA the road dives inland and the temperature goes from 67 degrees to 93 degrees in under one hour of riding. The transition from fairly cold riding and breathing wet sea air, to intense dry heat is quite an extreme shock.

[farmland near Santa Maria, CA]

As I approach Santa Barbara I make a final stop for gas. The view as I’m pulling out of the gas station confirms that I’m back in Southern California- two massive palm trees; an expanse of asphalt; and not a single cloud in the beautiful blue sky.

[SoCal view leaving my final gas stop]

I decide to spend my final night on the road in Santa Barbara. It’s a great little town and I’m able to find a hotel with a pool. The swim feels great after the warm ride in. I wander around downtown enjoying the views and eventually a nice dinner. Tomorrow I head back to Los Angeles!

[State Street in Santa Barbara]